1985.110: Fragment with Jewelled Cross

Identification and Creation

Object Number

1985.110

Title

Fragment with Jewelled Cross

Classification

Textile Arts

Work Type

textile

Places

Creation Place: Ancient & Byzantine World, Africa, Egypt (Ancient)

Period

Byzantine period

Culture

Byzantine

Persistent Link

https://hvrd.art/o/99802

Physical Descriptions

Medium

Wool and linen, tapestry woven

Technique

Woven, tapestry weave

Dimensions

41.3 x 38.1 cm (16 1/4 x 15 in.)

Acquisition and Rights

Credit Line

Harvard Art Museums/Arthur M. Sackler Museum, Gift of Nanette B. Rodney

Accession Year

1985

Object Number

1985.110

Division

Asian and Mediterranean Art

Contact

am_asianmediterranean@harvard.edu

Permissions

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Descriptions

Description

This textile fragment includes a tapestry woven square and two tapestry woven bands that meet at a right angle. These bands may have once run around the inner square to form a continuous framing border. Between the areas of tapestry weave is an area of plain undyed ground weave. Some of the plain ground also survives on the right side of the tapestry square and above the upper band. Vertical slits on the sides of the square and the vertical band have been stitched closed in buff and red threads. The tabby weave contains several decorative self-bands of undyed wefts. Supplementary buff wefts wrap around some of the warps to create the straight vertical lines needed in the design. The warps run parallel to the design.

The tapestry square is further subdivided into square and rectangular segments each containing a bird or a red abstract shape. The center compartment contains a bright yellow jeweled cross against a light blue medallion at its center. Individual pink round gems are positioned between the arms of the cross. The border of the medallion is formed from a circular vine; tendrils with leaves sprout from this vine and fill the empty corners of the square holding the medallion. Two of these tendrils survive; one is dark blue and the other red. At the four corners of the tabula are dark blue squares containing duck-like birds with red beaks and wings against a buff circle. These stand in profile and are mirror-symmetrical around the cross. The other four segments of the tapestry square are dark blue rectangles holding coiling red abstract shapes. Inside the corners of all of compartments are buff dots.

The same birds (inside squares) and curving red shapes (inside rectangles) also form the two bands that meet at a right angle. At the corner where the bands meet, the red shape has three coils instead of two. A red, eight-petalled flower against a buff circle is also used in this border.

A sawtooth border of dark blue and buff triangles surrounds the square and bands.

Commentary

This textile is characterized by bright colors and propitious imagery. The cross, often decorated with jewels, and paired with birds and flowers is a popular theme in Early Byzantine art from Egypt and especially in textiles and garments. The birds and flowers communicate the idea of Christ as a source of new life. The cross was a protective symbol and found throughout the home and on clothing as well as in more formal religious settings.

The layout of the decoration may suggest this textile originally served a function as a shawl or a furnishing textile like a pillow cover.

Verification Level