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Identification and Creation

Object Number
1981.31
Title
Fragments from a Tunic Front
Classification
Textile Arts
Work Type
textile
Date
5th century
Places
Creation Place: Africa, Egypt
Period
Byzantine period, Early
Culture
Byzantine
Persistent Link
https://hvrd.art/o/214511

Physical Descriptions

Medium
Wool and linen, tapestry weave
Technique
Woven, tapestry weave
Dimensions
87.5 x 35.5 cm (34 7/16 x 14 in.)

Provenance

Recorded Ownership History
Dikran Garabed Kelekian, New York (by 1951), by descent; Mr. and Mrs. Charles Dikran Kelekian, New York (1951-1981), gift; to the Fogg Museum.

Acquisition and Rights

Credit Line
Harvard Art Museums/Arthur M. Sackler Museum, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Dikran Kelekian
Accession Year
1981
Object Number
1981.31
Division
Asian and Mediterranean Art
Contact
am_asianmediterranean@harvard.edu
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Descriptions

Description
Several tapestry-woven fragments have been mounted on a linen backing in the shape of a tunic front. The largest, uppermost fragment consists of an arcade with four dark purple figures from a Dionysiac group standing under the arches. The leftmost figure is nude with a cap and holds a yellow staff topped with a green detail; this figure is likely Dionysus with his thyrsus staff. This green and yellow thyrsus is the only bit of color in an otherwise monochrome textile and serves to distinguish this first figure from the rest. On the right side of the staff are four purple dots. The same dots also appear under the raised arm of the final figure in the procession. The other three figures below the arcade take the traditional pose common to representations of dancers, with one arm raised and bent at the elbow. After the figure of Dionysus, going from left to right, we find a woman with a long, transparent peplos with one breast bared. This woman twists her body to look over her right shoulder. Next is a man either nude or wearing a loin cloth with some kind of implements at his waist, perhaps a shepherd’s crook. The last figure is a nude female striding to the right. Above her right hand and below her left are some purple shapes, perhaps instruments like castanets. All four figures glance to the right. Many details of these figures are articulated in an undyed supplementary weft in the ‘flying shuttle’ technique. Details of the arcade and animals are also created via flying shuttle. Surrounding the arcade on three sides is a border pattern of dark crow-stepped diamonds outlined in undyed wefts. This border transitions to the pattern of the clavi bands at about the figures’ waist height. Two large rabbits at the start of the clavi pattern also belong to this large fragment. A reinforced selvedge at the top edge of this fragment marks the neckline of the tunic.
Rabbits, lions, and grape leaf motifs repeat down the sides. At bottom are a pair of segments with vertical stripes.
Commentary
Perhaps these pieces have been cut from the front and back of a tunic and combined to approximate the original appearance of the garment.

Verification Level

This record was created from historic documentation and may not have been reviewed by a curator; it may be inaccurate or incomplete. Our records are frequently revised and enhanced. For more information please contact the Division of Asian and Mediterranean Art at am_asianmediterranean@harvard.edu